Tuesday, May 5, 2009

First Full Day in Istanbul

[caption id="attachment_28" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Turkish crafts on a wall of Wisteria"]
Turkish crafts on a wall of Wisteria[/caption]

The Blue Mosque as seen from the park
The Blue Mosque as seen from the park


[caption id="attachment_27" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Hido and I after the deal was made."]Hido and I after the deal was made.[/caption]

We slept well last night. Wonderful! And when we got up around 7:45 we thought we had slept in. When we went to breakfast around 8am, we found that we were way early. Clearly the day starts later here, and runs later as well. Trying to have an authentic experience, I had cucumbers, tomatoes, cold meats, olives and nice breads for breakfast. And of course, Turkish tea.

Everywhere you go you are served tea here. With a lot of sugar. I normally drink tea black, but when in Rome... It's a lovely custom. Very civilized.

After breakfast we went for a long walk to explore the Sultanahmet neighborhood. This area is all narrow cobbled streets lined with inns, cafes and rug merchants. One edge of the neighborhood is formed by the Marmara Sea and a wall built by the Ottomans about 1600 years ago.

We walked by the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sophia and Topkapi Palace,which are all a few blocks from where we are staying at the Angel's Home Hotel.

We walked until we got to the grand Bazaar -- the original shopping mall. It really is enormous. Hundreds of shops in big, small and tiny hallways and allies. I was going to just look, to get a sense of prices. But of course, once I entered into the bargaining, I went right with it and bought a beautiful ceramic plate and some bracelets. I was surprised to find that I liked bargaining. I thought I would feel badly about it. But I don't. It's fun banter and I get right into it.

We sat on the rooftop terrace and had tea when we got back. Then headed off to find lunch. We ate at a sidewalk cafe across the street from a 30 foot wall of wisteria. So fragrant! And a cat wandering around in it.

Did I mention the cats? They are everywhere! In the restaurants. In the streets. In the wisteria.

I had kebap and Jan had meatballs for lunch. Both dishes came on big plates with carrots, tomatoes, lettuce, pilaf and flatbread. Puffy flatbread straight out of the oven and yogurt dill sauce came as an appetizer. And of course they brought us tea when we were done. I love this food and the service.

The people here are lovely. Hospitality is very gracious and people seem very patient with us as foreigners. I have learned to say thank you (tesekkur ederim), hello (merhaba), and good morning (gunaiken). They are even more welcoming when they hear the attempt at communication. But really, we are doing everything in English.

There is a band playing traditional music in the street as part of the Spring Celebration. They stood in the street and prevented any cars from passing.

Our friends  Jim and Pat Keller just arrived. They are a day behind us, but seem much fresher. I will close now so we can go out for a drink at one of the picturesque cafes.

3 comments:

  1. The food sounds amazing. I would enjoy the bargaining. I would probably be looking for a good price on an oud. Istanbul seems to be one of the oud capitals of the world. There are many of the top oud craftsmen who live and produce there. Probably some of the best oud music is also performed there. It is a beautiful instrument with a great history.

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  2. You do a great job at describing everything! The breakfast sounds great - I love European breakfasts also.

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  3. I can definitely see you bargaining, Kim. I'm pretty sure that the shopkeepers would have no real respect for you if you just took the first price they mentioned. Your trip sounds fabulous. Just the thoughts of all the different sights and sounds and smells is energizing. I love being able to see it through your eyes.

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