The Erechthion Hotel (I kid you not – that is the name; the boys got a lot of mileage out of that one) where we stayed for just last night was a funny little hotel that I already look back upon with nostalgia. It was run by what seemed to be a family of women who all shouted at each other constantly. The lobby was marked by a big cabinet of kitsch. And they insisted on leaving the keys on the counter with the front door unlocked. I think the neighbors knew not to mess with them. Our corner room had a wrap around balcony and sliding doors on both walls. (Jim and Pat's room had a balcony only on one side – but they could see the Acropolis.) We thought this was great until we tried to go to sleep. The late night revelers were right under us all night. The hand held shower nozzle only spouted cold water – which encouraged us not to waste water.
For breakfast they gave us generous servings of coffee and tea and three kinds of bread with butter and peach preserves. We missed our wonderful yogurt, but enjoyed it anyway. They charged us 70 Euro, which seemed a little high for a cold shower and no internet connection. But we didn't yet understand the market.
After breakfast we decided to get our stuff right over to the Plaka Hotel, where we'll stay until we leave. It is by far the most formal, expensive place we have stayed. We're paying the sale price of 115 Euros here. The staff are staff, the window looks out on a dirty street and you pay by the hour for internet service. I miss the shouting ladies. Despite their complete lack of English (and ours of Greek), they looked out for us.
But today we did the Acropolis. We had been told to walk through the neighborhood to get there. We didn't know exactly what they meant, but of course we could see the Acropolis so just headed that direction. On the way there we made our way up a cute little street of cafes. We walked all the way around the Acropolis; climbing and descending the circuit, getting concerned that we had taken a wrong turn.
Then all of a sudden we were climbing up into the big Propylaea – the entrance to what you know as the acropolis. Then the Parthenon loomed over us. It's amazing to see something so big; so imposing. Something you've heard of all your life. Each of the pillars is at least 6 feet across. You can't imagine how the ancient Greeks and Romans got the materials up here. They are currently doing a lot of repair and reconstruction, so there is a lot of scaffolding and a huge crane. How did the moderns get the crane up here?
We took our time just imagining all the history that has taken place on that hill. Then on the way down, we found the little neighborhood path. It was literally a single file passage between houses and garden walls. Groups of school children were climbing up the path as we descended. We had to step into doorways to let them pass. The children all said “hello” (in English) to us and asked us where we were from. When we said “America,” they all said, “Wow!” It was completely charming.
After lunch, we went to watch the changing of the guard at the grave of the unknown soldier in front of the Parliament building. You may have seen the elite guards – they wear cute little skirts and pompoms on their shoes. (And something like hobnails under their soles, which they stomp on the ground as part of their marching.) Today was apparently casual Wednesday, so instead of the white puffy skirts, they had khaki dresses with pleated skirts. It was very windy today. (Spoiler alert.) I learned that they do not, in fact, wear pantyhose. They have on short-shorts and garters to hold up their long white stockings. There are two men on duty at any given point and they change every hour on the hour. On the half hour they do a ritual march to loosen up their legs. The rest of the time, they stand perfectly still. Yikes!
Today there was an officer in camouflage that kept watch over their activities. Periodically he went up to them and straightened their tassels, nudged their gun and flattened their skirts (the wind wreaked havoc on his sense of order). We posed next to them for pictures. Patty tried to be silly and do a crane pose. She got chided by the tassel man.
Sadly, as they did the change we were watching, one of the guards leaving duty (and whose legs had likely fallen asleep) fell on the marble step as they did their high stepping. I felt so badly for him. I'm sure his buddies will never let him live that down. I wonder how often that happens.
We did a quick walk through of the national gardens, but soon realized that we needed a nap/break. The striking thing is that we are just coated in dust. Our shoes are filthy. Some of it is crushed limestone from the Acropolis, and some of it is dirt. Did I mention that Athens is a dirty city? And sunny? Time in our clean, air-conditioned room is welcome.
post script: I just took my first shower since Istanbul. I have revised slightly my feelings for this hotel.
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